Why Were Craft Brews Created? The Story and Enjoyment Behind the "New Sake" That's Gaining Attention

In recent years, the term "craft fermented sake" has become increasingly common on the menus of liquor stores and restaurants. While it resembles sake, there's something distinctly different about it. It might have fruity aromas, herbal notes, or be intentionally cloudy.

Many of you have probably wondered, "Is this actually sake?"

In this article, we at Nikoniko Taiyo Shuzo will explain what craft fermented sake is, how it differs from traditional sake, and why this new genre is currently gaining popularity.

The Background of Craft Fermented Sake's Birth

The emergence of craft sake as a new genre is rooted in the "system" surrounding Japanese alcohol production.

In Japan, new manufacturing licenses for seishu (sake) are generally not issued.

Based on the idea of supply and demand adjustment, the door to new licenses has been closed for a long time.

This means that for new entrants who want to "start making sake from scratch," it has been extremely difficult to even display the name "seishu."

So, brewers turned their attention to the "other fermented alcoholic beverages" category.

This license, while sharing the fermentation of rice with sake, allows for the addition of secondary ingredients such as fruits, herbs, and hops.

Even new brewers can try their hand at making their own sake under this category.

Instead of lamenting the restrictions, they seized the opportunity to broaden their range of expression, which became the starting point for craft fermented sake.

In 2021, an industry association was established by brewers, giving the genre a clearer definition.

Now, craft fermented sake breweries, reflecting the local climate and agricultural products, are being born one after another across the country.

Differences Between Craft Fermented Sake and Traditional Sake

We will answer the question "How is it different from sake?" from three perspectives.

1. Different legal classification: Sake (seishu) is defined by the Liquor Tax Act as a beverage primarily made from rice, rice koji, and water, and undergoing a "pressing" process. Craft fermented sake, on the other hand, deviates from this definition of seishu due to the use of secondary ingredients or different brewing methods, and is therefore treated as a separate category of alcoholic beverage. For this reason, it cannot be labeled as "sake."
2. Different freedom in ingredients: Traditional sake is basically brewed only with rice, rice koji, and water. In contrast, craft fermented sake, while based on rice fermentation, can combine various secondary ingredients such as fruits, herbs, spices, and tea leaves, depending on the brewer's imagination.
3. Different brewing concepts: Intentionally leaving it cloudy in the finish, or devising unique innovations in the fermentation and yeast processes. Craft fermented sake allows for free design, unconstrained by the mold of "this is how sake should be."

It's important to note that the two are not "opposing." Craft fermented sake and traditional sake are branches from the same cultural root of fermenting rice. It is out of respect for the tradition of sake that we can playfully explore beyond its boundaries.

Why "Craft Fermented Sake"?

The reason we are drawn to craft fermented sake can be summed up in one word: "freedom."

The ability to design the flavor from scratch.

The ability to use local fruits and agricultural products to create a unique product that can only be born in that region.

The ability for young brewers to directly express their sensibilities in their sake.

Craft fermented sake has transformed sake brewing from "following prescribed rules" to "creating and expressing oneself to the world."

The appeal to drinkers is also significant.

It expands the range of enjoyment when pairing with food, and makes it "interesting" enough for those who haven't been particularly familiar with sake to try it.

We believe that the value of craft fermented sake lies in its ability to broaden the ways in which people enjoy alcoholic beverages themselves.

Is the craft fermented sake boom also coming to an end?

Whenever something new appears, there are always voices saying, "It's just a fleeting trend."

The same view exists regarding craft fermented sake.

At this point, it's worth recalling the journey of craft beer.

When craft beer first emerged, it was sometimes predicted to be "just a temporary fad."

However, contrary to those predictions, it has firmly taken root as a culture and is now established as a definite genre.

Dedicated breweries and taprooms have increased in various regions, and it has become a common choice for consumers.

We believe that craft fermented sake will follow the same path.

This is because craft sake is not merely supported by novelty; it has a solid foundation of "inevitability born from systemic constraints" and "brewers' genuine expression."

It is not something that will disappear with passing trends, but will remain as an entity that adds new options to Japan's sake culture.

Nikoniko Taiyo Shuzo brews its sake with this belief.

Conclusion

Craft fermented sake is neither a denial of sake tradition nor a bizarre, fleeting trend.

It is a new, yet grounded, genre that inherits the rich culture of fermenting rice while further expanding its possibilities.

At Nikoniko Taiyo Shuzo, we will continue to deliver the charm of craft fermented sake through each and every bottle.

If you're curious, please give it a try. You'll surely find the world of sake to be a little freer and a little more enjoyable.