Rare Blog of a Novice Brewer

The reason why a brewery in Kishiwada, Osaka, brews sake with local Senshu water and rice. We bring you the story of a representative who experienced a cerebral infarction at the age of 31 and returned to manufacturing 20 years later, and his passion for sake brewing rooted in the land.

I've summarized the process that led to my passing the preliminary screening for the Osaka Product Planning project. Unfortunately, I failed last year, so I put a lot of effort into preparing this time, and it seems to have paid off!

Why is a brewery that has specialized in unpasteurized sake and "fukurozuri" (drip-squeezed sake) now venturing into pasteurization? From the brewery floor, we'll provide a real account of hydrogen bonds and flavor changes, the breakthrough of "binzume-mae-hiire" (pasteurization before bottling), and even the issue of bottling "doburoku" (unrefined sake).

For those looking to open a new sake brewery. Obtaining a liquor manufacturing license involves high hurdles, including a two-stage review process by the tax office and National Tax Agency, an annual production requirement of 6,000L, and daily chemical analysis. This article explains the reality of acquiring a license and the potential of craft brewed alcoholic beverages, which are gaining attention as a practical solution for new entrants, from a現場の視点 (on-site perspective).

Why did the owner of an antique art shop decide to start a sake brewery? A stroke at 31, the sudden inability to drink alcohol, and a book he encountered in his twenties. The owner himself tells the story of his passion for sake brewing, which became a reality 20 years later.

A micro-brewery run by a single person is combining Arduino, Wi-Fi sensors, Google Spreadsheet, and the TILT hydrometer to manage brewing in real-time. We introduce a new sake brewing site that fuses the craftsman's intuition with IoT.

Despite having a body type that cannot drink alcohol, I can strangely drink only bag-dripped sake. This experience is verified based on scientific papers. Zero off-flavors, hydrogen bonding, and a silky smooth texture. A sake brewery thoroughly explains "the reason why bag-dripped pressing is gentle on the body."

For our first craft brew, we took on the challenge of a three-stage fermentation plus additional ingredient method using strawberry juice. We'll detail the entire brewing process, from a small 15L batch and 9 days of temperature control to the final bagging, along with the brewing record until Yamane Brewery's president praised it as "a perfect 100 points."

Sake, doburoku, and nigorizake — they seem similar but are completely different. This article thoroughly explains the differences between the two categories defined by the Liquor Tax Act, based on their production methods, ingredients, and shipping requirements. 1. "Sake" and "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages": What are the distinctions under the Liquor Tax Act? In Japan, the manufacturing and sale of alcoholic beverages are strictly regulated by the Liquor Tax Act. Please note that manufacturing or selling without a license is a legal violation. The Act broadly classifies alcoholic beverages into four types: "Sparkling Alcoholic Beverages," "Brewed Alcoholic Beverages," "Distilled Alcoholic Beverages," and "Mixed Alcoholic Beverages." Within brewed alcoholic beverages, there are further categories such as "Sake," "Synthetic Sake," "Fruit Wine," and "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages." Most of what is generally referred to as "Japanese sake" falls under the legal definition of "Sake" under the Liquor Tax Act. Other beverages, such as what is commonly known as "doburoku" and certain fermented drinks, may be classified as "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages." These two categories, while seemingly following similar production methods, are fundamentally different in terms of the requirements stipulated by the Liquor Tax Act. These differences are summarized along three axes: "Filtration Obligation," "Additives Regulation," and "Range of Ingredients." Liquor Tax Act, Article 3 (Excerpt and Summary) Sake refers to an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting rice, rice koji, and water, which has been filtered, and has an alcohol content of less than 22 degrees (addition of sugars, organic acids, etc. is permitted under certain conditions). Reference: National Tax Agency, Interpretation of Laws, Article 3, Definition of Other Terms What is noteworthy here is the phrase "has been filtered." To be shipped as sake, the moromi (mash) must always be filtered. This is the fundamental difference from "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages." 2. Main Differences ①: Whether there is an obligation to filter moromi (mash) In sake production, the stage where rice, rice koji, and water are prepared and fermented is called moromi. If this moromi remains as is, it is "doburoku (turbid moromi)." Incidentally, while moromi cannot be filtered in the case of other brewed alcoholic beverages, if it has separated into clear liquid and sediment over time, simply scooping out the clear liquid is considered filtration. Sake Filtration is a mandatory condition Under the Liquor Tax Act, moromi must be filtered to be manufactured and shipped as "sake." Separation of rice solids (sake lees) and liquid (sake) through filtration is a legal requirement. Shipping in doburoku form is not permitted under a sake license. Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages Can be shipped without filtration With a license for "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages," moromi can be shipped as a product in its unfiltered doburoku or turbid state. The recent "Doburoku Special Zone" system also utilizes this category. This regulation has a significant impact on practical operations. For example, when farm stay operators or small local businesses utilize the "Doburoku Special Zone" system to manufacture and sell doburoku, they often obtain a manufacturing license for "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages." While a sake license requires moromi to be filtered to a clear state before shipping, a crucial reason is also that new brewing licenses for sake, shochu, and mirin are not currently being accepted. Furthermore, this difference directly affects the appearance of the product. Filtered sake generally results in a transparent to pale yellow liquid, whereas doburoku, classified as other brewed alcoholic beverages, is sold in a cloudy, white state. Recently popular "nigorizake" belongs to the sake category. This is because it satisfies the "filtered" requirement by either intentionally adding back a small amount of sediment after initial filtration, or by using a coarser filter cloth to leave a trace amount of solids. 3. Main Differences ②: Regulations regarding additives during fermentation Another important axis distinguishing sake from other brewed alcoholic beverages is the range of ingredients and additives that can be introduced during fermentation. Sake Strict restrictions on additives during brewing During fermentation (brewing process), only items listed by the Liquor Tax Act can be added. Primarily rice, rice koji, and water, with sake lees, brewing alcohol, sugars, organic acids, amino acids, etc., permitted only under certain conditions. In principle, "unlisted" ingredients such as agricultural products cannot be added during fermentation. Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages Relatively flexible with additives during fermentation Other brewed alcoholic beverages can be manufactured by adding ingredients "other than rice, koji, and water"—such as fruits, vegetables, herbs, dairy products—during fermentation. This allows for the creation of craft-style fermented beverages with unique flavors, while still being sake-based. In sake, the ingredients that can be used for brewing are explicitly stipulated by the Liquor Tax Act. For example, directly adding yuzu or plums to the fermenting moromi is not permitted under a "sake" manufacturing license (if fruit juice is added to finished sake, the category becomes liqueur, requiring a different license). On the other hand, in the category of other brewed alcoholic beverages, it is sometimes possible to incorporate such "unusual ingredients" into the fermentation process, which has gained attention amid the recent craft fermented beverage boom. For example, fruit doburoku, which adds fruits during fermentation while based on rice and koji, is one such example. 4. Main Differences ③: Range of usable ingredients Sake is primarily made from "rice, rice koji, and water." The definition of sake in the Liquor Tax Act includes the phrase "made by fermenting rice, rice koji, and water, which has been filtered," which sets the minimum conditions for sake. The addition of alcohol or sugars is permitted if statutory requirements are met, but only within the scope of "sake." Key Point: Sake Ingredient Regulations (Overview) Main ingredients permitted for sake: Rice, rice koji, water, sake lees, brewing alcohol (less than 36% alcohol by volume), sugars, organic acids, amino acid salts, starch syrup, coloring agents, etc., limited to items specified by the Cabinet Order for the Liquor Tax Act. Reference: Overview of the "Sake Production Quality Labeling Standards" In contrast, "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages," as the name suggests, is a broad category that encompasses brewed alcoholic beverages that do not fall under the definitions of sake, synthetic sake, fruit wine, beer, etc. They can use grains and sugars as primary ingredients, and other things as secondary ingredients, such as products made with herbs or hops. 5. Comparison with specific examples Case ①: Doburoku Special Zones and direct sales from farmers With the "Structural Reform Special Zone" system initiated in 2003, farmers and farm stay operators in specific regions became able to locally produce and sell doburoku on a small scale. This doburoku is manufactured under a license for "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages," and due to its special zone status, there are also regulations that only doburoku can be produced. It is expanding through regional revitalization and promotion of farm stays, with special zones now existing nationwide, including Takatsuki City in Osaka. Case ②: Is nigorizake sake or other brewed alcoholic beverages? Most "nigorizake" sold commercially is classified as sake. This is because it meets the legal requirement of "filtration" by passing the moromi through a coarse cloth, a process called "arakoshi" (coarse filtration). Although it appears cloudy, it is legally filtered sake under the Liquor Tax Act. On the other hand, doburoku, which is not filtered at all, falls under the category of other brewed alcoholic beverages. Case ③: Craft sake made by fermenting rice and fruit together In recent years, craft fermented beverages have emerged that are based on rice and koji but also incorporate herbs or fruits during fermentation. Since these use ingredients outside the scope of sake's ingredient regulations in the fermentation process, they are often produced as "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages," and this is indicated on the label. Case ④: Junmai-shu and Honjozo-shu "Junmai-shu" is sake made only from rice, rice koji, and water, without the addition of brewing alcohol. "Honjozo-shu" is sake with a small amount of brewing alcohol added. Both are legally classified as "sake" under the Liquor Tax Act. Both undergo a moromi filtration process, making them a completely different category from doburoku; doburoku cannot be called junmai-shu. Our brewery refers to this as junmai brewing. 6. Table: Sake vs. Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages Comparison Item Sake Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages (e.g., Doburoku) Moromi Filtration Mandatory (legal requirement) Not required. Can be shipped unfiltered Main Ingredients Primarily rice, rice koji, water Can also use ingredients other than rice, koji, water Additives during fermentation Only legal items (strict enumeration) Relatively high degree of freedom Appearance Transparent to pale yellow (nigorizake is exceptionally cloudy) Mostly cloudy/opaque Representative Examples Junmai-shu, Ginjo-shu, Honjozo-shu, Nigorizake Doburoku, craft fermented beverages Legal Basis (Liquor Tax Act) Article 3, Item 7 (Definition of Sake) Article 3, Item 19 (Definition of Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages) License Category Sake Manufacturing License Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages Manufacturing License 7. Summary: What the two categories signify "Sake" and "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages" both share the commonality of being fermented beverages made from rice, koji, and water, yet they differ distinctly in terms of the requirements stipulated by the Liquor Tax Act. Sake is bound by two restrictions: "must be filtered" and "ingredients limited to statutory items," which serves as the institutional backing to preserve traditional sake quality. On the other hand, "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages" is a category freed from these restrictions, offering a more flexible manufacturing license option for farmers in Doburoku Special Zones and manufacturers creating new craft fermented beverages. Sake must always filter moromi; cannot be shipped as doburoku Other brewed alcoholic beverages can be shipped unfiltered; Doburoku Special Zones utilize this license Ingredients and additives that can be used in sake brewing are limited to those enumerated in the Liquor Tax Act Other brewed alcoholic beverages have the flexibility to add ingredients other than rice, koji, and water during fermentation Commercially available "nigorizake" is sake that has undergone coarse filtration, legally distinct from doburoku Junmai-shu, Honjozo-shu, and Ginjo-shu are all classified as "sake" When choosing sake, simply checking whether the label says "Sake" or "Other Brewed Alcoholic Beverages" can reveal the institutional framework within which the product was created. Understanding the legal mechanisms behind alcoholic beverages might just be an entry point to enjoying sake more deeply.

How was the brand "Kimama" born? Please read the secret story behind the brand name, which conveys gratitude for the rare rice of local farmers and the desire to deliver its "unadulterated" deliciousness. This name was chosen after considering many candidates, including the classic auspicious words "Chiten Tai" from the I Ching, the Buddhist term "Uchouten," and the potter Hanjiro Kawakita's pseudonym "Kimama."

Ready to start brewing sake I thought I could start brewing sake as soon as I got my license, but preparing after getting the license has been surprisingly tough. Sake brewing involves steaming rice, mixing it with koji and water, and adding yeast, but there are countless other tasks and responsibilities.   Things that can only be done after getting the license Reporting the recipe to the tax office. Label design application Registering facility equipment Ordering reagents for analysis during brewing Ordering yeast etc For a new sake brewery like ours, we have zero approved recipes, so we have to apply for everything. Also, there are things like yeast that cannot be purchased without a license. Preparing all of that took two months. Can only use Windows For applications and declarations related to sake brewing and sales, e-Tax, an online registration system, is essential, and paper applications are frowned upon. With paper applications, the application form is mailed to a dedicated counter, where it's digitized into a PDF and then delivered to the sake department, which reportedly takes about a week. However, with e-Tax, applications can be viewed immediately, so the sake official recommended e-Tax, or rather, requested it. So, I decided to try e-Tax. Upon investigation, I found that while there are online options, applications for sake-related matters can only be done by installing software. Furthermore, it's a system where you verify your identity by reading your My Number Card with a card reader, but I don't have a My Number Card, so I wondered what to do. I found out that it's possible to proceed by preparing documents containing the company's registration information. However, this also costs about 8,000 yen for 27 months. Creating a My Number Card would take time, and I couldn't do anything during that period, so I gave up, paid the fee, and applied for the documents with the company's information. I thought this would allow me to apply, but there was another pitfall... My computer is a Mac, so that was out. Reluctantly, I borrowed my wife's computer, installed e-Tax, created an account, and completed only the minimum necessary applications. Sake brewing not only requires applications but also monthly declarations of sales performance. Borrowing my wife's computer every time would be difficult, so I gave up and looked into buying a used Windows laptop, but models from about five years ago were selling for tens of thousands of yen. Apparently, WIN11 is installed, but will it run properly? I'm also worried it might break down quickly. On the other hand, new ones cost over 100,000 yen, and those with low specs are too slow to be usable. Found a MINI-PC It's a desktop computer without a monitor, keyboard, or mouse, but if I can use it remotely from my Mac, I don't need a monitor, keyboard, or mouse to operate it from my Mac. This perfectly matches my needs. Moreover, the price is incredibly cheap at around 30,000 yen. The specs are also perfectly adequate, and it runs smoothly. Normally, I use my Mac, but when I need to use e-Tax, I just boot up this MINI-PC and make the applications. A monitor and keyboard are only needed during setup, but I used the TV as a monitor and the keyboard I used before switching to Mac. Now I can finally start as a brewer Two months passed in a flash. I was so excited about getting the license and had so many things to do that some tasks were left incomplete or inadvertently overlooked, causing time to slip by. Anyway, Sugimoto Sake Brewing is starting.